So when we upsample, we increase the image to 4 times its original size. We’ll use a simple averaging (mean) filter, which will allow us to resolve detail at up to 1/4 of our original pixel size. Once we’ve gathered all our images (I recommend shooting several scenes to get the hang of shooting so many photos at once) we can stack them, up-sample them, realign them and then filter their data with a statistical filter. The subtle motion of our hand will actually act just like a sensor shift mechanism and allow different pixels to capture different parts of the scenes. The real trick is that we’ll shoot this set of exposures completely hand held. We’ll gather a high quality dataset by shooting a collection of about 20 consecutive sharp images. The superresolution method here relies on statistics. The mix of moving cars and fine detail in the streets of the Costa Rican town will allow me to demonstrate both the benefits and limitations of the technique. I happened to be staying near San José, Costa Rica while writing this article so I shot a bunch of street photos for this tutorial example.
#Tutorial for superphoto how to#
Here’s what to expect and how to do it: What to Expect It’s a simplified geometrical reconstruction technique using the concept of sub-pixel image localization. My question has always been: Can we achieve a similar kind of superresolution without the need for a special sensor shift mechanism? The answer is yes and the technique is stupidly simple.īy taking a burst of numerous consecutive photographs by hand and cleverly combining them in post processing, we can noticeably improve the resolution capability of any camera. Now I wouldn’t really call myself a pixel-peeper, but the thought of making an ultra-high resolution photo intrigues me. At 40 megapixels, it’s right on par with some of the highest resolution DSLRs currently available like the Nikon D810 (36 MP) and the Sony a7R (36 MP). It’s a little more modest than the ridiculous level of detail capable by the Hasselblad but the E-M5 II is a compact system mirrorless camera with a much much smaller 4/3″ sensor. Similar to the H4D-200MS, the OM-D E-M5 II makes no less than 8 consecutive photographs with its 16 MP sensor.Īfter shooting these 8 photos, each with a different sensor position, it then combines the data from all 8 images into a 40 MP image (or up to 65 MP in RAW). The recently announced Olympus OM-D E-M5 II is the first consumer level camera to feature this technology.
In the four short years since Hasselblad announced the 200 MP beast, sensor shift technology is starting to see its way into more affordable cameras. I knew that I’d probably never be able to lay my hands on such an expensive camera, but I knew that I want the same technology in my (much more modest) compact system camera. The current generation H5D-200c costs more than most mid range cars at $45,000. The camera would then automatically re-align those images and combine them together to produce a photo with 4x the amount of resolution. Using a special sensor-shift mechanism inside the camera, the H4D-200MS was able to make 6 separate images, each with slightly different sensor positions with only a pixel of difference between each shot.
The thing that intrigued me most about the H4D-200MS was that it made these extremely high resolution images with only a 50 MP sensor. I was first introduced to the concept of superresolution when Hasselblad announced their H4D-200MS, an obscenely expensive medium format camera capable of 200 megapixel (MP) images (it has since been superseded by the Hasselblad H5D-200c). If you’re the pixel peeper looking to create extremely fine detailed, high resolution images for print work, or if you just want to learn about an actual method to create extremely high resolution and cleanly detailed photos, keep reading. While not quite as simple as just buying a Canon EOS 5DS R, this tutorial shows you how to actually enhance the resolution of your camera to levels upwards of 40 megapixels without spending a dime on new equipment. Because of this limitation, it’s best for static scenes like landscape photography or certain studio/product photography. It’s not very suitable for moving subjects. Much more than a few carefully placed keystrokes, superresolution is both a shooting technique and a post processing method and there are limitations in its application. I’ll show you how it’s possible to make visible what were previously indiscernible details and break the resolution bounds of your camera. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to enhance images just like (actually, not at all like) in the movies.
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